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How to measure a Toowoomba Saddlery saddle

Saddle size vs seat size
measuring a saddle

HOW TO MEASURE A TOOWOOMBA SADDLERY SADDLE

One of the most common saddle questions we hear is “Which saddle size do I need?”
When answering this question it is important to know how the saddle is being measured.

To help you better understand Toowoomba Saddlery saddle sizes we have prepared a brief guide.

Skip to: Saddle vs Seat Size | Size Comparison | Saddle Parts | Other Measurements | Fender Length

You may already know that Western style and Australian stock saddles are measured differently to English style saddles. It is also worth noting that some saddleries may take their measurements from different points on the saddle.

Saddle Size vs Seat Size

Toowoomba Saddlery’s saddles are available in up to 5 saddle sizes. These diagrams and table should give you an idea of how each saddle size compares to the seat size and saddle length.

Saddle Size Measurement
Measure from front-most part of the pommel to inside back seat.

Seat Size Measurement
Measure from the back of the pommel to inside back seat.

Saddle Size vs Seat size

Comparison Chart

INTERACTIVE: Select a saddle size from the box to see the relative saddle size and length.


(A) SADDLE LENGTH

21″ (53.4cm)


(C) SEAT SIZE

11.5″ (29cm)

See the saddle size conversion information as a static chart

(A) Saddle Length(B) Saddle Size(C) Seat Size
22″ (55.9cm)14″ (35.5cm)11.5″ (29.0cm)
23″ (58.4cm)15″ (38.0cm)12.5″ (31.5cm)
24″ (61.0cm)16″ (40.5cm)13.5″ (34.0cm)
25″ (63.5cm)17″ (43.0cm)14.5″ (36.5cm)
26″ (66.0cm)18″ (45.5cm)15.5″ (39.0cm)

Parts of a Saddle

A. Pommel
B. Kneepad
C. Cantle (The raised curved part at the back-top of the seat)
D. Seat Flap
E. Fender

Saddle Measurements

H. Seat Dip Measurement
Can be measured by placing a ruler or straight edge on pommel and top of cantle. Take measurement from this ruler to the lowest point of the seat.

I. Kneepad Height Measurement
Measure from the base of the kneepad to highest point of knee pad.

J. Chamber / Gullet Width Measurement
Measurement taken from the saddle tree (for consistency).

saddle measurements diagram
The diagram above indicates how the sizes listed in our saddle specifications are measured.

Saddle Fender Length

The benefit of removable fenders is that you can easily source spares or replacements as well as being able to mix-and-match saddles with fenders for a better fit. E.g. For a child with long legs you could purchase a youth-size saddle, then replace the standard youth size fenders with an adult size pair.

Saddle fender length diagram

Standard adult size saddles fenders: Adjustable from approximately 19” to 26” in length.
Shortened adult size fenders: Adjustable from approximately 17 ½” to 24 ½” in length.
Standard youth size saddles fenders: Adjustable from approximately 14 ½” to 18 ½” in length.

How we measure fender Length
Measure from the top of the webbing (where it hooks over the stirrup Bar) to the bottom of the leather.

Spare saddle fenders are available, and supplied by the pair.
Click here to view fender options


Ready to compare saddles? View all Toowoomba Saddlery saddles ►

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How to care for your TS leather saddle

Conditioning Saddle
oiling the saddle

HOW TO CARE FOR YOUR TS LEATHER SADDLE

At Toowoomba Saddlery, we craft our saddles with durability in mind.
With proper care, your Toowoomba Saddlery saddle will provide many years of service.

Frequently Asked Saddle Care Questions

Do I need to oil or condition my new saddle before I ride in it?

Toowoomba Saddlery recommends a light initial oil prior to your first ride (avoid over oiling) to protect the leather from the elements. It is normal for the leather to slightly darken after oiling.

Which products should I use to oil or condition my new saddle?

Toowoomba Saddlery uses and recommends Oakwood Leather Conditioner and leather oil and also Joseph Lyddy leather care products.

How often should I oil or condition my saddle?

It depends… but as a general rule you should oil your saddle before your first ride, and perhaps every 2 – 6 months there-after depending on how often you ride and your climate. If you ride in very dry or very humid conditions, you may need to oil or condition your saddle more often.

How often should I clean my saddle?

Wiping down your saddle after every ride is a good habit every rider should establish. As with conditioning, how often you perform a thorough saddle clean depends on how often you ride and your climate.

How do I care for rough-out leather on a saddle?

Once dry (after cleaning), you can lightly brush rough-out leather with a stiff bristle brush to give it new life.
You oil rough-out and smooth-out leather in exactly the same way.
NOTE: Toowoomba Saddlery does not pre-oil suede or rough-out leather on our saddles prior to dispatch as some riders prefer to use them without oil, to increase the grip this leather finish provides.

How do I care for a suede seat on a saddle?

Suede is a split leather, thinner than full grain leather and as such requires a little more maintenance. Over time, with the constant friction of riding and cleaning, the nap can ‘slick’ down, however as with all leather products, proper maintenance will extend its life as much as possible.
You can pre-treat with waterproofing and stain preventing spray before the suede is used.
Regularly remove surface dust and refresh the nap with a nylon bristle brush (similar to a nail brush). Raising the nap helps remove dirt and debris trapped between fibres and keeps the grippy texture. For heavier soiling, clean gently with soapy water and brush. Try not to oversaturate. For stains, you can try a ‘suede eraser’ which acts similarly to an eraser on pencil-marks.


CLEANING YOUR LEATHER SADDLE

We recommend Oakwood or Joseph Lyddy saddle soap.

  1. Scrub with luke-warm (not boiling) soapy water using a soft brush or cloth.
  2. Rinse well with clean water.
  3. Wash the felt lining in the same way.
  4. Allow your saddle to dry in a well ventilated shaded area (NOT in direct sunlight).
  5. When completely dry, you can re-oil / dress your saddle.

OILING YOUR LEATHER SADDLE

We use and recommend Oakwood Leather Oil, or Joseph Lyddy Neatsfoot Oil.

  1. Ensure the saddle is clean and dry.
  2. Apply the oil all over the saddle, use a clean paint brush to cover hard-to-reach areas, and a soft cloth or sponge for the larger areas.
  3. Give the oil some time to soak in (around an hour).
  4. Wipe off the excess with a clean, dry cloth.

CONDITIONING YOUR LEATHER SADDLE

Always use a quality leather conditioner.
We use and recommend Oakwood Leather Conditioner.

  1. Ensure the saddle is clean and dry.
  2. Apply first with a brush to get into all the crevices.
  3. Rub over the larger areas in a circular motion with a sponge or soft lint-free cloth.
  4. Buff the leather with a soft, dry cloth.
  5. Once conditioned, the leather can take 24 – 48 hours to fully dry.

SADDLE CARE DON’Ts

Do not use hot water - icon

NEVER WASH YOUR SADDLE WITH BOILING WATER !
Leather is the same as our skin, if the water is too hot for our bare skin, it is too hot for leather. Many times, we have seen where very hot water has been used on saddles (mainly to shape fenders and the like), destroying the leather surface.

Do not oil a wet saddle - icon

NEVER OIL A WET SADDLE!
This can trap moisture in the leather, potentially leading to mould or rot.

DONOT use hot oil - icon

NEVER USE HOT OIL !
This will damage the leather.

DONOT use mineral oils - icon

NEVER USE MINERAL BASED OILS
e.g. engine/motor oil etc… as this will dry the leather out.

DONOT dry with direct heat - icon

NEVER DRY YOUR SADDLE WITH DIRECT HEAT!
This includes blow-dryers, heaters and direct sunlight. This can shrink, harden and crack the leather.

SADDLE CARE DOs

DO use tepid water - icon

DO USE ONLY TEPID WATER
when cleaning your saddle.

DO clean and oil regularly

DO CLEAN & OIL YOUR SADDLE REGULARLY!
If the leather dries out you risk decreasing the life of the product.

DO gearchecks - icon

DO PERFORM REGULAR GEAR CHECKS !
Check your girth, girth points, stirrup leathers and bridles. Only use a reputable saddler for repairs.

DO dry naturally - icon

DO LET YOUR SADDLE DRY NATURALLY!
in a well-ventilated, shady area.

Ongoing Saddle Care

saddle care products

Both Oakwood and Joseph Lyddy leather care products have a long history in Australia. Make them part of your regular leather care regime to get the most out of your leather products.
View our leather care products ►


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Characteristics of Hermann Oak® Leather

Hermann Oak logo
Hermann Oak Logo
US flag

Characteristics of Hermann Oak® Leather

Tanned in the USA since 1881

Why Hermann Oak Leather is Different

Hermann Oak has used the traditional pit tanning method since 1881 and is now one of the last tanners of vegetable leather in the world still using this system. Hermann Oak does not cut corners, their processes and practices are a key component to the leather quality, worth the extra time and effort, and every penny of additional cost. Their system results in tanned leather that is superior in many ways:

Leather with ‘body’

Their tanning system takes up to six weeks for the thickest leather. This is two or three times longer than more modern pit tannages, and over ten times longer than vegetable
drum tannages. Their leather is not “pickled” with salts and strong acids like modern vegetable and chrome tannages. This longer exposure to natural vegetable tannins and milder organic acids in Hermann Oak’s traditional pit tannage, imparts a unique density to the leather. Saddles don’t get heavy because they don’t absorb as much oil as do other leathers.

Temper

Hermann Oak® leather starts a little firmer than others, helping the leather maintain shape throughout its life, and stretch less. Customers tell us how soft the leather becomes when wet for moulding and shaping, yet how well it returns to its firm base when dried. It also performs well in carving, stamping, and tooling. For effective and consistent results Hermann Oak avoids overloading of its liming vats, tanning pits and fatliquor drums, and even under-loads them to ensure quality.

A thick, strong, naturally tanned ‘enamel’

Hermann Oak uses a two-day high-float liming process, which is less astringent and less abrasive to both fibres and enamel, than the low-float one-day process used by most
other tanners. The extra time also allows for the wrinkles and draw to better “let out.”

Colour

While other leathers may turn a dull brown with use, Hermann Oak® leather maintains rich colour over the years due to its strong enamel. When new, it oils up evenly and richly, bringing out the natural colours of the underlying bark.

Clean skins

Hermann Oak cleans up the flesh side as best as possible. They also use a custom-designed machine to remove the scud, or hair root, which few other tanners do.

Reduced chance of ‘acid rot’

Thanks to their use of mainly organic acid, not the inorganic sulfuric acid used by most other tanners, the condition of ‘red rot’ or ‘acid rot’ which can occur over long periods of time under humid conditions is avoided.

Appropriate moisture content

Hermann Oak prevents over-drying (an irreversible process removing ‘bound’ water) through controlled drying. The thickest leather takes as long as three days to dry.

Leather-specific processes

There are additional processes specific to each leather type which contribute to their high quality:
Strap-Tooling-Holster-Latigo lines are lime-split to relax the fibres at an early stage, a difficult mechanical step in the limed state that most tanners have abandoned.
Harness leather is so heavily stuffed with beef tallow that it must be set with a small hand-operated setter and a slicking blade. It then takes a full week to dry, since it is as difficult for the water to escape as it is for water to re-enter. We have found no other leather in the world that contains as much “stuffing” tallow as Hermann Oak® Harness Leather.

View our full range of Hermann Oak leather and discover the difference for yourself: Hermann Oak leather supplied by Toowoomba Saddlery